Post by cecil on Jan 23, 2008 5:21:54 GMT -5
Commercial Largemouth Bass Paint Schedule (Micropterus salmoides)
Note: This paint schedule is not meant to be the only way to paint a largemouth bass. I have placed it here to help those just starting out, or for others that just want to see someone else's take on painting this species. Be aware they can vary somewhat in color from water body to water body, and region to region. If you are a beginner you should strive to be able to paint any species just by looking at your reference and wean yourself away from paint schedules. This may take a little time but can be learned. I hope to add full color pictures for each step sometime soon.
I put gold scale tips on the upper fourth of the fish with treasure gold wax, a fine point artist brush thinned with mineral spririts. I do this before I paint my fish as I believe it makes them a little more natural and subtle.
1.) Sealer. I use Gary Bowen's Super Fish Sealer as I llike the covenience of the aerosol can.
2.) Off White. Paint this inside the mouth, under the gill covers, and the belly feathering up the side 1/4 up the fish. Also just behind the mandible but lightly, and the bottom of the head up to on the gill covers. (use reference until you are comfortable with this). Use just enough to cover. Remember you will go over that with the next color. One common error on those just starting in
painting is to use too much white. You are not painting a fence post.
3.) Silver Pearl or Chrome Pearlescent. Use this on the rear edge of the gill cover, the side and lower part of the jaw, and on the belly feathering it up just like the white. Don't use it on the fleshy parts of these areas even though you have white there.
4.)Jet Black or Dark Brown or Dark Brown mixed with Jet Black. Use this to blend in the epoxy on top of the head, the bottom lip, and any fin repairs, or to even out an light spots on the fish.
5.) Irridescent Gold. I use this on the sides of the fish including where the spot pattern on the lower sides will be painted on, the mandible, and the opercle and cheeks wherever you want a green coloration. Do not use it on the epoxy work on the head and do not spray any of the fins directly with it. Don't worry about overspay though.
6.) Bright Yellow. Use on the epoxy repair area on top of the head, the bottom lip, dorsal fins, rays on pelvic fins (lightly), and any other areas where you want a green coloration. Go lightly! Also some on the area where you will be painting your scale spots below the lateral line spot pattern (the one that goes the length of the fish longitudially ). Be careful in this area and go lightly. Some fish are more yellow in this area than others.
You should see a hint of green as the Bright Yellow it goes on.
One common error on those just starting out painting fish is they think they need to use a green to get a green fish. Not necessarily so. Since you already have a somewhat darker skin tone using green may cause you to produce a green that is darker than you want. Lightly going over the skin tone will produce a nice light green which you can darken if you wish later.
7.) Dark Bass Green mixed with some black. Use this for your scale spots bellow the horizontal spot pattern, the horizontal spot pattern, the markings ont he gill cover, and any other spot marking on the fish. When you go to do the scale spots on lower side of the fish add up to 30 % retarder. Spray your spots at a low angle and obliquely to the lenght of the fish to get narrow spots on the rear edge of the scales. You also can use this color to darken the lower lip, the rear edge of the maxillary bone, and the top of the head and back etc.
8.) Gill Red. Use this on the gills after you pack the mouth with paper towels, and put a little of the paper toweling in the top corner just under the gill cover.
9.) Jet Black. Go back over the horizontal spot pattern and darken anything that needs to be darkened. I also like the caudal fin (tail) to be slightly black (not much) and leave the anal fin alone.
10.) Two flash coats of your clear coat followed by two heavier coats. I prefer an automotive clear coat as I have had nothing but trouble with the others out there. I believe much of this has to do with shelf life and a product that is not sold right away.
Note: This paint schedule is not meant to be the only way to paint a largemouth bass. I have placed it here to help those just starting out, or for others that just want to see someone else's take on painting this species. Be aware they can vary somewhat in color from water body to water body, and region to region. If you are a beginner you should strive to be able to paint any species just by looking at your reference and wean yourself away from paint schedules. This may take a little time but can be learned. I hope to add full color pictures for each step sometime soon.
I put gold scale tips on the upper fourth of the fish with treasure gold wax, a fine point artist brush thinned with mineral spririts. I do this before I paint my fish as I believe it makes them a little more natural and subtle.
1.) Sealer. I use Gary Bowen's Super Fish Sealer as I llike the covenience of the aerosol can.
2.) Off White. Paint this inside the mouth, under the gill covers, and the belly feathering up the side 1/4 up the fish. Also just behind the mandible but lightly, and the bottom of the head up to on the gill covers. (use reference until you are comfortable with this). Use just enough to cover. Remember you will go over that with the next color. One common error on those just starting in
painting is to use too much white. You are not painting a fence post.
3.) Silver Pearl or Chrome Pearlescent. Use this on the rear edge of the gill cover, the side and lower part of the jaw, and on the belly feathering it up just like the white. Don't use it on the fleshy parts of these areas even though you have white there.
4.)Jet Black or Dark Brown or Dark Brown mixed with Jet Black. Use this to blend in the epoxy on top of the head, the bottom lip, and any fin repairs, or to even out an light spots on the fish.
5.) Irridescent Gold. I use this on the sides of the fish including where the spot pattern on the lower sides will be painted on, the mandible, and the opercle and cheeks wherever you want a green coloration. Do not use it on the epoxy work on the head and do not spray any of the fins directly with it. Don't worry about overspay though.
6.) Bright Yellow. Use on the epoxy repair area on top of the head, the bottom lip, dorsal fins, rays on pelvic fins (lightly), and any other areas where you want a green coloration. Go lightly! Also some on the area where you will be painting your scale spots below the lateral line spot pattern (the one that goes the length of the fish longitudially ). Be careful in this area and go lightly. Some fish are more yellow in this area than others.
You should see a hint of green as the Bright Yellow it goes on.
One common error on those just starting out painting fish is they think they need to use a green to get a green fish. Not necessarily so. Since you already have a somewhat darker skin tone using green may cause you to produce a green that is darker than you want. Lightly going over the skin tone will produce a nice light green which you can darken if you wish later.
7.) Dark Bass Green mixed with some black. Use this for your scale spots bellow the horizontal spot pattern, the horizontal spot pattern, the markings ont he gill cover, and any other spot marking on the fish. When you go to do the scale spots on lower side of the fish add up to 30 % retarder. Spray your spots at a low angle and obliquely to the lenght of the fish to get narrow spots on the rear edge of the scales. You also can use this color to darken the lower lip, the rear edge of the maxillary bone, and the top of the head and back etc.
8.) Gill Red. Use this on the gills after you pack the mouth with paper towels, and put a little of the paper toweling in the top corner just under the gill cover.
9.) Jet Black. Go back over the horizontal spot pattern and darken anything that needs to be darkened. I also like the caudal fin (tail) to be slightly black (not much) and leave the anal fin alone.
10.) Two flash coats of your clear coat followed by two heavier coats. I prefer an automotive clear coat as I have had nothing but trouble with the others out there. I believe much of this has to do with shelf life and a product that is not sold right away.