Post by cecil on Jan 23, 2008 5:53:18 GMT -5
Commercial Northern Pike Paint Schedule (Esox lucius)
Note: This paint schedule is not meant to be the only way to paint a northern pike. I have placed it here to help those just starting out, or for others that just want to see someone else's take on painting this species. Be aware they can vary somewhat in color from water body to water body, and region to region. If you are a beginner you should strive to be able to paint any species just by looking at your reference and wean yourself away from paint schedules. This may take a little time but it can be learned. I hope to add full color pictures for each step sometime soon.
Step 1.) Sealer. Use a commercial fungicidal sealer available from suppliers. One flash coat and two moderate coats. I use Gary Bowen's Super Fish Sealer for the convenience of the aerosol can.
Step 2. Dark Brown or Black, or the two mixed together to get the shade you want. Use this color to blend in epoxy on the head and a dark brown on any scared areas on the side of the fish. The trick to blending in with this color especially on the scars is to use a dark enough color so not much will be needed. You can always wipe it off and start over by using a q-tip and acetone. Also with blending in the scars you can remove overspray in the same manner, as not to have a dark outline on the outside edge of the scar.
Step 3.) Off White. Paint the inside of the mouth, gill covers, belly, and behind the maxillary bone with this color.Also where the belly meets the white spot marking lightly.You want a smooth transition there not abrupt. If you get some on the green areas of the lower sides remove it with the q-tip dipped in acetone before proceeding. Do not paint the spot pattern on the side of the fish if they are still distinct. If you paint them it will not look as natural and it is not necessary. Go over all the spots with either acetone or lacquer thinner and a q-tip to get any green off the spots. Some report better success by adding another sealer coat before using the q-tip.
Step 4.) Chrome Pearlescent or Silver Pearl Use this moderately over the belly white and more heavily over the gill cover where white was applied. Also under the head area where it is also white but not the fleshy areas.
Step 5.) Iridescent Gold Paint this lightly to moderately over the side and back of the fish where the fish exhibits a green coloration. Don’t use it on the fins, top of the head, or any areas that were painted white.
Step 6.) Transparent Dark Green. (Lifetone or Hydromist) Use this on the side of the fish you want to be green minus the spot pattern. It is not as dark as the name implies. Go easy until you get the color you want. Try to avoid the spot pattern but if you do cover the spots it’s easy to remove it with a q-tip and acetone. Also paint the back. Also on the mandibles, cheeks, and gill covers. If you have trouble getting the paint to go as fine as required add some retarder (about 30 percent).
Step 7.) Bright Yellow I use this color on the fins. Use it quite heavily on the caudal fin (tail) and as you proceed forward on more anterior fins on the fish use it more lightly. Your fish may be different so use reference. Be very careful with overspray as this color on white causes problems.
Step 8.) Gill Red paint this carefully over the rear of the caudal fin where yellow was applied. This will produce an orangish coloration, but some fish are even more intense than that with a blood red rear edge. It depends on the fish. As with the yellow paint, this color lightens as you proceed forward on the fish. Also paint the gills after packing the inside of the mouth with paper towels.
Step 9.) Black Darken the top of the back if necessary and enhance the black stripes and swivel markings on the fins. As with the yellow and orange on the fins, decrease the intensity as you move forward on the fins of the fish.
Step 10.) Chrome Pearlescent or some other kind of Silver Pearl- Use this moderately on the cheek of the fish, but apply only after a sealer coat has been applied in that area. This prevents it bleeding into the previous color. This is optional.
Step 11.) Burnt Seinna Use this lightly on the vent area and on the recurved teeth on the roof of the mouth.
Step 12.) Use some type of gloss coat and apply several coats.
Note: This paint schedule is not meant to be the only way to paint a northern pike. I have placed it here to help those just starting out, or for others that just want to see someone else's take on painting this species. Be aware they can vary somewhat in color from water body to water body, and region to region. If you are a beginner you should strive to be able to paint any species just by looking at your reference and wean yourself away from paint schedules. This may take a little time but it can be learned. I hope to add full color pictures for each step sometime soon.
Step 1.) Sealer. Use a commercial fungicidal sealer available from suppliers. One flash coat and two moderate coats. I use Gary Bowen's Super Fish Sealer for the convenience of the aerosol can.
Step 2. Dark Brown or Black, or the two mixed together to get the shade you want. Use this color to blend in epoxy on the head and a dark brown on any scared areas on the side of the fish. The trick to blending in with this color especially on the scars is to use a dark enough color so not much will be needed. You can always wipe it off and start over by using a q-tip and acetone. Also with blending in the scars you can remove overspray in the same manner, as not to have a dark outline on the outside edge of the scar.
Step 3.) Off White. Paint the inside of the mouth, gill covers, belly, and behind the maxillary bone with this color.Also where the belly meets the white spot marking lightly.You want a smooth transition there not abrupt. If you get some on the green areas of the lower sides remove it with the q-tip dipped in acetone before proceeding. Do not paint the spot pattern on the side of the fish if they are still distinct. If you paint them it will not look as natural and it is not necessary. Go over all the spots with either acetone or lacquer thinner and a q-tip to get any green off the spots. Some report better success by adding another sealer coat before using the q-tip.
Step 4.) Chrome Pearlescent or Silver Pearl Use this moderately over the belly white and more heavily over the gill cover where white was applied. Also under the head area where it is also white but not the fleshy areas.
Step 5.) Iridescent Gold Paint this lightly to moderately over the side and back of the fish where the fish exhibits a green coloration. Don’t use it on the fins, top of the head, or any areas that were painted white.
Step 6.) Transparent Dark Green. (Lifetone or Hydromist) Use this on the side of the fish you want to be green minus the spot pattern. It is not as dark as the name implies. Go easy until you get the color you want. Try to avoid the spot pattern but if you do cover the spots it’s easy to remove it with a q-tip and acetone. Also paint the back. Also on the mandibles, cheeks, and gill covers. If you have trouble getting the paint to go as fine as required add some retarder (about 30 percent).
Step 7.) Bright Yellow I use this color on the fins. Use it quite heavily on the caudal fin (tail) and as you proceed forward on more anterior fins on the fish use it more lightly. Your fish may be different so use reference. Be very careful with overspray as this color on white causes problems.
Step 8.) Gill Red paint this carefully over the rear of the caudal fin where yellow was applied. This will produce an orangish coloration, but some fish are even more intense than that with a blood red rear edge. It depends on the fish. As with the yellow paint, this color lightens as you proceed forward on the fish. Also paint the gills after packing the inside of the mouth with paper towels.
Step 9.) Black Darken the top of the back if necessary and enhance the black stripes and swivel markings on the fins. As with the yellow and orange on the fins, decrease the intensity as you move forward on the fins of the fish.
Step 10.) Chrome Pearlescent or some other kind of Silver Pearl- Use this moderately on the cheek of the fish, but apply only after a sealer coat has been applied in that area. This prevents it bleeding into the previous color. This is optional.
Step 11.) Burnt Seinna Use this lightly on the vent area and on the recurved teeth on the roof of the mouth.
Step 12.) Use some type of gloss coat and apply several coats.